The Land of Wine

If you let your imagination go completely without limits, you probably couldn’t picture a more naturally beautiful region on the planet than the southwestern coast of Italy. With vistas of ocean and steep cliffs overlooking distant islands against a backdrop of mountains, it’s no wonder tourists from all corners of the globe trek here for restorative vacations and posh retreats.

When the Greeks first arrived in ancient Italy they called the new frontier “Oenotria” which translates as the “Land of Wine.” Of course, it would be easy to assume that they were marveling at the vineyards of a modern northern Italian landscape, but the reality is that they had disembarked far closer to the toe and heel of Italy overlooking what is now the Bay of Naples in the region of Campania.

A modern visitor can still see the rustic beauty of a vista dotted with vines filled with ripening grapes in the

full sun of summer. In an area like Sorrento, a traveler can expect to find a comfortable seat in a local bistro in the high cliffs overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea with breathtaking views of the Isle of Capri and Mount Vesuvius rising in the north. The views are perfectly complemented by the wines made from one of three grape types often called the “archeological varieties”, which were brought to the area by long forgotten Greek conquerors.

The area is considered poor and rural by today’s standards. Instead of modern wine making methods, one is treated to practices rooted in generations of family traditions. All three varieties—Aglianico, Fiano, and Greco—thrive in the volcanic soil of Avellino, northeast of the still active volcano of Vesuvius. Aglianico is the grape that is southern Italy’s most famous red wine Taurasi. The wine itself is dark in color and capable of aging for decades. Chock full of earthy chocolate and leather notes as well as the full tarry smell and feel of ripe cherry fruit. Taurasi transforms into a complex and wonderful nod to a people and area considered more a tourist attraction than serious wine region. Its sisters— both white grapes —

equally defy the common belief that the warm southern climate and rustic winemaking practices make for an inferior product. Campania’s Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo have a loyal following of consumers worldwide, attracted by a nutty almond flavor with acids that make it pair well with foods. Amazingly, the region of Campania is known in culinary circles for introducing both Italy and the world to the undeniable food staples of pizza and spaghetti with tomato sauce.

It’s the Mastrobernardino family who has made a reputation by leading the way in large volume production of archeological varieties. But don’t be afraid of families whose resources may be more limited but whose history in the region are equally rich. Alessandro di Stassio of Tenuto Ponte produces well under two thousand cases each of Greco di Tufo and Aglianico Taurasini. Both stand out in quality and are well worth the effort to find.